April 23, 2012
"The thing that is really hard, and really amazing, is giving up on being perfect and beginning the work of becoming yourself."

Anna Quindlen (via meeeeeeemz)

Tomorrow: Anna Quindlen

(via nprfreshair)

(via nprfreshair)

April 3, 2012
cocoron *slurp*

I have enough self-awareness to see what’s happening here: I’m getting the travel bug again and feeling a pull to the western-most parts of Asia where, admittedly, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting a little bit. But not nearly enough. Sadly, traveling that way isn’t in my future any time soon. In the meantime, I’m happy to make due with eating a boatload of Japanese food here in NYC. 

This weekend I could be found shoveling in soba noodles at Cocoron, a tiny little spot on the Lower East Side. 

You sit elbow to elbow around a bar surrounding the kitchen and slurp up hot or cold soba noodles — whichever your heart desires. I was intrigued by all the action going on around me, and so I opted for the cold: You actually cook the noodles yourself in a pot full of boiling, aromatic broth. Look!

I bet you’re just beside yourself wondering what else is floating in that gorgeous-looking broth, aren’t you? Well, I’ll tell you. It’s pork and kimchee and scallions and so much deliciousness you’d think you had died and gone to Tokyo. And if you don’t get the chicken meatballs as an appetizer, you might just hate yourself forever.

February 18, 2012
jack’s wife freda (& a bout of homesickness)

I’m not one to fall hard for a tiny breakfast spot simply because it goes out of its way to be adorable — I’m not that kind of girl. But Jack’s Wife Freda, which recently opened on Lafayette Street in Nolita/Soho (sometimes I have trouble with boundaries), has a lot more going for it than comeliness: There’s the excellent food for one and that something *else* that reminds me of home …

One of the (many) things this Midwestern girl has found challenging about moving to NYC is feeling comfortable around New Yorkers. Of course it’s been said more often than not that people in New York are ruder than in other places, and I while I don’t agree nor do I contest. Here’s the thing: New Yorkers aren’t rude at all, they simply lack friendliness — and there’s a huge difference. Ask someone in Chicago for directions, and they’re not only happy to help, but they’re likely to strike up a conversation about how cute your dog is or how much they like your shoes. Request the same of a New Yorker and they’ll point out the way — maybe they’ll even take you there themselves! — but it will be done silently, with an exasperated air, like they can’t believe they have to cross paths with such a moron as you. I’ve had to learn this lesson the difficult, embarrassing way.

But not at Jack’s Wife Freda, where I felt like I was beamed up and out of NYC and then back down into an alternate reality (I suppose that’s how some of us refer to the Midwest) where friendship, sincerity, and genuine enthusiasm abound. 

They went out of their way to make sure we were comfortable eating at the bar (we were). They act excited about the menu. They checked in frequently and didn’t act annoyed when we wanted a second helping of brunch cocktails. The owner, Maya, (I’m pretty sure it was her; she and her husband, Dean, are the owners, and Jack and Freda are Dean’s grandparents — how’s that for a family tree) had this to say when we asked for the homemade hot sauce: “Cava and hot sauce? You are my kind of girls!” How could you not love this place?

And while the service is friendly, the food is pure sophistication — after all, this IS New York. I’m partial to the poached eggs with grilled tomato and haloumi, but the baked eggs with shakshuka (green tomato sauce made with tomatillos and spicy peppers) is quite nice as well. I may have even returned a couple mornings later simply because I couldn’t get enough.

Thanks, Jack’s Wife Freda, for making me homesick.

December 29, 2011
five questions for nicole ponseca of maharlika

It’s that time of year, friends. Time for a little end-of-the-year reflection that the last days of December inevitably inspires whether we like it or not. At a time such as this, my mind immediately strays to the very best things I ate and drank over the past year. Of course, then my stomach starts a rumblin’ … really, how could it not?

I have two food memories that stand out from the rest. One is my birthday brunch on a crisp and sunny fall day at Blue Hill Stone Barns — an event I had waited many years to experience and will remember for many, many years to come (isn’t that precisely how a birthday should be celebrated?). And the other is a dinner I had with my boyfriend at Maharlika, which I wrote about here. (My inclusion of these two restaurants together in no way suggests they are in any way similar, save for the fact that offerings both challenged and delighted me more than anything else I ate this year).

I developed quite a foodie crush on Nicole Ponseca, one of the owners of Maharlika, when I met her during dinner. You can imagine my excitement a few weeks later when she agreed to put up with my five questions about her awesome Filipino restaurant in the East Village (which has expanded to a steamed-bun shack at Dekalb Market and pop-up brunch in Williamsburg). Here are her answers — it’s my new year gift to you!

1. So. What’s the deal with the awesome ’80s music and all the cool stuff hanging around your restaurant?

NP: Well, aside from being the best era for music — I mean what’s not to love? Duran Duran, Madonna, Hall & Oats, The Ramones, Talking Heads; Soul, Funk, Hip Hop, Pop — the decade evokes such a visceral reaction in me. It’s sense memory, and I get very sentimental. [The 1980s were] a golden time for Philippine immigration to the US, a politically charged era, and time when a lot of my friends were growing up or being born.

The space is a homage to two muses: 1) The film “Sticks of Death”, which you can find for instant gratification on Netflix, and 2) The socio-economic time of the Philippines during the ’80s. The film “Sticks of Death” is kinda Robin Hood-meets-Scarface. It’s a campy and kitschy martial arts movie, and it captures the Philippines in the ’80s. We were inspired by the gangster mansion in the film and the home’s opulence via a Filipino lens … to that end, we were sitting around and discussing socio-economic dynamics and discovered a few things. Namely, like most third world countries, there is a vast divide between those who have and those who have not. Yet, the divide was only exacerbated when we see what the politics of the Philippines of that time had conveyed to the outside world. To that end, I asked myself: What if a middle class had existed? What if a modest family could afford to feed, clothe, educate their children and have a home with a proper floor and secure roof? What if that family desired to showcase their Pinoy pride? The interior for Maharlika was born.

2. How did you come up with the menu?

NP: Finding the chef and conceptualizing the menu proved to be interesting when I embarked on this adventure 10 years ago. I worked with about eight chefs who did food testing/concepts with me I was fraught with naysayers, who either disappeared/flaked out or flat out said that they weren’t interested in advancing Filipino food … that it could never cross over. NO ONE BELIEVED.

In 2007, Miguel and I met at a restaurant in SoHo, where he was the Executive Chef. Fast Friends. Sitting in my kitchen lamenting about a lack of chef, Migs said, “I’ll help you.” I said (between tears) “…but you’re (sniffle sniffle) not even Filipino (sniffle sniffle), what do you know about Filipino food?” Miguel’s response was classic, “Well Jean-George is not Malaysian, right? Bobby Flay is not from New Mexico, right?” He wiped my tears, we took off from there. Little did I realize how similar Dominican food is to Filipino. Obviously, with its Spanish influence, Filipino cuisine relies heavily on the concept of “guisa,” which is Spanish and Tagalog for stew/braise.

We started doing mock a “restaurant” in my apartment. I’d invite 10 or 20 people over, and we would have a menu, drinks, the whole nine. Just to practice. We hit every restaurant in New York. I went to San Fran, Seattle, Miami, Los Angeles, San Diego, Philadelphia, Washington DC –- everywhere, searching if such a concept existed.

Miguel started grabbing whatever book, article and online recipe, but it wasn’t cutting it. We took off for the Philippines for nearly three months last year in our quest to get to the core of Philippine cuisine. We wanted to cut the mystique that has always left the food on the sidelines of the culinary map. We backpacked through cemeteries, caves and Manila traffic. We started at the most northern part and zig zagged to the south. Miguel honed in on his craft with ya-yas (house keepers), moms, lolas (grandmothers) and renowned Filipino chefs. We learned the soul of the food. We learned the essence of the food that cannot be taught in cookbooks or television.

Miguel and I have a very similar view on food: It is a living and breathing art. Where a painter might use oils and brushes, Miguel uses spices and skillets. The thing about art is that you have to be inspired and you have to get to the heart of the matter. The best artwork and food is when it has a soul, right?

The menu had to be curated and edited. I wanted to do away with the notion of offering a menu with eight or more pages.  How can you possibly do everything well? Our idea was keep it simple and focus.

We are on a constant fight to best ourselves, to set the tone, to champion Filipino cuisine. What happens today — good or bad — is just today. We have tomorrow to contend with.

3. What’s the most kick-ass dish at Maharlika and why?

It’s a hard question. Every dish feels like my child. How can i pick a favorite child? Each dish has its own complexities, flavor profiles, etc. Each dish satisfies a particular craving. That’s the thing with Filipino dishes. The flavor characteristics are sweet, sour and salty and often deep-yet-one note dishes. You have to ask yourself, “Do I feel like salty?” or “Do I feel like sweet?” I sound like Clint Eastwood, “Do I feel lucky? Well, do I?”  Again, ’80s influence prevails.

I’d say we are known for our sisig, but that just scratches the surface.

4. Which drink should diners not leave without trying?

Pacquio’s Punch. (Agreed!)

5. Describe the vibe at Maharlika on a typical Saturday night at 10 p.m.

The vibe is jovial/upbeat. This is not restaurant you go to break up with your boyfriend. It’s a place to have fun, bop your head to good music, unwind, kick back a san mig and eat to your heart’s content.

*For more info on Maharlika, go here. Just do it.

November 30, 2011
my top picks for restaurants & bars in new orleans

If New Orleans were a person, she’d be laughing her ass off at me. And I’d totally deserve it. That’s because I underestimated how well I’d eat and drink within that city’s limits on my stay. I thought it would be great. And it was. But what I didn’t count on was that I’d be still thinking about it in this level of intimate and graphic detail almost two weeks later. Here are some of my favorite must-have meals and cocktails in New Orleans.

The Sazerac Bar: I’m such a sucker for a vintage cocktail. I got a tip on this place from a knowledgeable source and, damn, did that guy know what he was talking about. It’s swanky. It’s elegant. It’s the Roosevelt Hotel, people. Wear your fancy pants. Don’t make me tell you what to order.

Domenica: If you find yourself saying, “Oopsy. I had one too many sazerac aperitifs and don’t really feel like schlepping far for dinner in my sexy heels,” never fear: The Roosevelt Hotel comes through yet again. In addition to The Sazerac Bar, this hotel is also home to Domenica, the new Italian John Besh restaurant. The space isn’t much to talk about, but that’s fine because all your attention will be focused on one of the better meals you’ve had in a long time. I’d recommend the roasted cauliflower with whipped feta, pumpkin tortellini, and pizza enzo with anchovies and mortadella. But I’d be wasting my breath because literally EVERYTHING rocks here.

K-Paul’s: When in New Orleans, you have to eat classic New Orleans cuisine, and that’s where this adorable little place comes in. Get the fried green tomatoes, stuffed pork chop, and blackened drum. You won’t be sorry. In fact, you’ll be very happy. (And very full.)

Arnaud’s: A curmudgeonly bartender begrudgingly made me this champagne cocktail, but this old timey jazz bistro is so adorable and cute I totally forgave him. (And, yes, I refuse to tire of the vintage cocktails.)

Napoleon House: Go for lunch. Sit in the garden. Order a muffaletta. Wash it down with an Abita Amber. The signature Pimm’s Cup is quite nice, too.

Sylvain: My favorite meal of the trip was had here. The perfect night went down this way: We relaxed with a Bayou Teche Beire Noir in the tree-covered courtyard while waiting for our table. Once seated inside the really chill space (it used to be a carriage house), bourbon with house-made cola became the drink of choice. The bistro-inspired fare — southern-style antipasti with artisan cheese, and a pickled farm egg, shaved Brussels sprouts salad, braised beef cheeks, and sauteed drum — was served up with plenty of Southern charm and New York swagger. *Sigh.* Bliss.

Hmmm … did I leave anything out?

?

?

?

Oh yes.

I have just four words for Cafe Du Monde: Twice in 24 hours.

So go ahead, New Orleans. Laugh it up.

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